Panama

Sunday 27th September
Cahuita to David (Panama)

It barely seems yesterday we entered Central America and we are crossing into our last Central American country, Panama. An advanced party of 6 had departed yesterday for Panama as between the borders is the first of the two, difficult to cross, “banana bridges” and the crossing needed to be done in smaller groups.We had short 40 mile ride to the first part, the exit from Costa Rica, a quick stamp in the passport then fill in a form and exiting the bikes was done in a relatively quick hour. We then each had to negotiate the “banana bridge” a metal lattice railway bridge with some planks laid longitudinally each side of the rails for vehicles. These present no problem to car and trucks, but to a bike they are a nightmare with gaps big enough to loose your front or back wheel in. We walked the length to determine the best side, the left, then it was a matter of constant walking pace speed and concentration to keep on the planks, ignoring the missing sections of the “safety” fence and the big drop to the river below. All except one made it across without mishap, the one dropped his bike 5 times requiring help from the others to get it back on the planks. Having crossed the bridge we had to enter Panama, another “fumigation” (quick spray of soapy water on the tyres) for a charge of 1 dollar then stamp in the passport got us to the vehicle import office.

This office was not in the computer age and a single officer typed out all the documents on an old style type-writer, which looked like it had been bought in the 50’s. This all took another 2 hours while we waited in the heat before we could proceed. The rest of the journey took us up and over the mountains and into much cooler weather with rain storms, some of the groups caught up in these and could barely see due to the heavy rain. I was lucky and missed the worst of the rain arriving in David late afternoon although not without problems, as I got into the centre of town the bike developed a problem with the gears and I was only able to select first gear. having asked a policeman the way to the hotel, I got to the hotel and immediately looked into the problem, it would not be good to ride the 300 miles to Panama city in first gear! After much scratching of heads, I tried bending the gear lever out, I remembered on the off-road course that some bikes had had the same problem due to a bent gear lever, this much to my relief sorted the problem and I retired to my room.

Miles
Today 180
Total : 11476
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Monday 28th September
David to Panama City

I did not get chance to see the town of David, but it’s a basic working town and truck stop, we spend little time riding here in Panama, we have to make the 300 or so miles to Panama City our last stop in Central America. The ride to the city started at 6.30 and we made good time on the main Pan Am highway though a generally boring road with sections of dual carriageway. As ever we still had to dodge around the substantial potholes and bad surface which would suddenly appear out of the blue after miles of good tarmac. We rode, as a group, across the impressive “Americas Bridge” and into the City, a city of wild contrast as we see a “shanty town” of houses back dropped by the skyscrapers of the main city. This is the first “high rise” city we have encountered on our journey, as we have avoided most population centres. We parked up outside the “El Panama” a very posh hotel, though outside its very hot and humid, but I seem to have acclimatised to this and find the air conditioned rooms too cold. I had to also empty the panniers and tank bag into the kit bag I had used to get to Alaska, it was very strange and disruptive, as I had been living out of the panniers for the last couple of months. Once settled in a quick trip to the local laundry shop and a walk around to get my bearings. We then went out to find the “London Pub” for food and drink, it took us 20 minutes of walking to find it, disappointingly it only served Boddingtons bitter from "out of date" cans.

Miles
Today : 287
Total : 11763
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Tuesday 29th September
Panama City
Day Off

Again being hot and humid we had to hang around the hotel waiting for the go to take the bikes to the airport warehouse, at around 10 am we were go. It took almost an hour to get to the airport, on the way we had two toll booths, at the second one my bike ground to halt with the smell of burning at the back end. Closer inspection I found the rear brakes seized on and the disc was glowing red hot, I was stuck in the middle of the lane to the toll booths with lots of traffic behind sounding their horns! I used my water from my back pack to cool the calliper and adjusted the brake as much as I could, enough just to get it free and move the bike to the side of the road. Leaving it for 20 minutes allowed it to cool enough to ride to the airport, where we then spent the next 4 hours processing the paperwork to get the bikes air freighted. After this a taxi ride back to the hotel saw us getting in around 3.30 pm, too late to get any shopping banking or posting done. It was this time we found out that an ex-president of Panama had passed away, this meant that this day and the next all public offices closed and most shops. The evening was spent on group meal and a show of local traditional dancing which was very colourful though a little wooden.

Miles
Today : 0
Total : 11763
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Wednesday 30th September
Panama City
Day Off

Getting up early we hired a Taxi to go see the Panama Canal, the early start was because the big ships go through early. The taxi driver was quite knowledgeable on the canal and the city so we got a running commentary the whole time, we got there in time to see a large container ship pass through the first set of locks. What I did not know was the canal is only part of the way across, most of the transit is on a man-made lake system, the larger part of the canal is in the south to join up with this lake system. The lake is 26 metres above sea level and is kept full of water due to rain created by the surrounding rain forest, driving the conservation of this area. The rest of the day was spent lounging around and final packing for the flight tomorrow as everything is closed even the post office for this Memorial Day. This is our last full day in Central America, we have been in each country only a few days each, some more than others but just enough to be able to get a basic feel for each as we ride through.

Miles
Today : 0
Total : 11763
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Costa Rica

Tuesday 22nd September
San Juan Del Sur to Playa Hermosa (Costa Rica)

As this was a boarder crossing we started off early 7.00am and travelled the 50 miles to the boarder, the procedure here tends to be helped if you hire unofficial helpers (who have official badges!), we spent 2 hours booking out of Nicaragua, first ourselves then the bikes. We then had a short ride (100 meters) to the parking compound for Costa Rica, where we found out that a lorry had just taken out all the power cables to the office, the office consisting of a bus with some computers in it. The bus is there as the main office burnt down some months ago, so now the staff where slowly boiling, waiting for temporary power to be got working, with a line of angry truckers waiting. It took 2 hours to get temporary power to the bus then another hour while the air conditioner took effect so the staff trapped in the bus could cool down to get to work. They then had to deal with us and a load of angry truckers. With much barging and shoving we got some of our paperwork done, however lots of mistakes were found, passport numbers wrong or VIN numbers wrong and we had to go back and get these corrected. If any were wrong we would not be able to leave the country at the other border. The whole process took 5 hours in the heat of the day and I was glad to be back on the bike in the cooling stream of air. Once riding it was immediately obvious Costa Rica is much more developed and westernised, the roads being better maintained but more obviously the whole infrastructure around being more like we are used to, power cables, poles etc. at the side of the road looking better, farms more defined and regular. Buildings and houses are better maintained with gardens appearing again, though I had not noticed them missing until now.
We rolled into another beach hotel and finished the day with a swim and beers watching the sunset with a thunder storm in the distance.

Miles
Today : 98
Total : 10939
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Wednesday 23rd September
Playa Hermosa to Volcan Arenal, La Fortuna

We were due to ride the dirt road over the mountains but the recent thunder storms had made the road impassable so we had to divert on a longer run around using tarmac roads. Although still hot and sticky we proceeded on pleasant roads until turning off were there are road works, they allowed the bike to proceed but this consisted of running across planks of wood across deep ditches. After this we had a straight run until the lake where the road twisted and turned around the lake for 30 miles with sections of broken u road and narrow bridges creating an interesting ride. The volcano was ringed by cloud but I could see the top belching out clouds of steam.

Miles
Today : 189
Total : 11128
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Thursday 24th September
Volcan Arenal to La Virgen (Selve Verde Lodge)

Again starting the humid heat the road continued to be twisty and challenging until we got to the main roads. After a while we hit rain, the heaviest rain so far and it continued as we proceeded towards the water falls, a stopping point on our way. Before we got there a group of us were stopped by locals, they told us there had been an earthquake here the last month and the road and a hotel by the waterfalls had collapsed. This left the road impassable, we waited till all the group arrived and then rode in a group on an alternative route, taking some 2 hours longer and most arriving us before night fall.

Miles
Today : 168
Total : 11296
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Friday 25th September
La Virgen (Jungle lodge)
Day off



This lodge is right in the jungle with paths throughout, the noise is incredible and never stops, I guess you just get used to it after a while. We spend this day white water rafting down the local river then the afternoon on zip slides though the jungle, a fantastic experience, the evening spent relaxing and trying not to get too hot.


Miles
Today : 0
Total : 11296
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Saturday 26th September
La Virgen to Cahuita




A simple ride got us to this coastal town, the area continues to be jungle hot and humid, plenty of palm and similar tropical fauna. The ride was short and undemanding along major roads skirting the coast with the sea in view for the later part of it , of note was passing though a town called Liverpool. An early afternoon arrival allowed for a swim in the sea then drinks by the swimming pool in the hotel, once again this adventure motorcycling is really hard :>) Costa Rica is very Americanised with a lot of English speakers due to the volume of tourists normally here, we are riding in these central American countries during the off season, due to the weather being too hot and humid and it being the wet season. We therefore find most towns and hotels empty of other tourists and the beaches empty.

Miles
Today : 113
Total : 11296

Nicaragua

Sunday 20th September – Day 58
Danali to Granada (Nicaragua)




A short run of 28 miles saw us at the boarder at 8.30 am, it was still hot and sticky but thankfully cloud cover came in and took some of the heat away. We had to book ourselves out first, then the bikes for each of which there was a charge $3 and $7. We then had to get ourselves stamped into Nicaragua, then buy insurance for the bike. This consists of unofficial-officials sitting at the side of the road filling out official looking forms which of course we had to pay 300 Cordoba’s for! Then the process of waiting in line for 2 -3 hours as each bikes documents were checked and typed into a computer with each of us getting a printout as an official import document, during the wait I replaced the headlight bulb which has just gone that morning. After each bike was then checked for VIN and plate numbers we then had to go to the police section to have this checked again by them and then the import document signed. We could then all leave, but as we got to the barrier the officials there again wanted to check the import document! The whole process had taken abut 4 hours, but we were on our way to Granada, although this is a very poor country the roads are surprisingly good, however after an hours run we meet our first official corruption, police stops where they accuse you of traffic violations such a speeding and passing on double yellows. The only way to play this is to feign not understanding them due to the language barrier. This works for some of us but others ended up paying varying amounts of “fines”, I’m not sure this money sees the government coffers though. Towards the end of the day I took a quick side trip to the Masaya Volcano where you can drive up to the car park at the very edge of the caldera. The signs here warn of eruptions where you are supposed to shelter under your car, also to leave you vehicle ready to leave in a hurry! I got there late afternoon so have some spectacular picture of the sun hazed by the sulphurous clouds exuded by the volcano, at one point the wind shifted I got a lungful of the acrid air.


Miles
Today : 210
Total : 10759
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Monday 21st September
Granada to San Juan Del Sur

Even with a late start partly deliberate and partly due to one of the group having a puncture this short riding day saw us get fairly quickly to the Pacific resort of San Juan del sur. Having left the bikes at the hotel we went to the beach for a swim in the very warm water, I helped one of the locals get his boat into the water, this was fun as we had to time it with the larger waves, eventually catching a big wave and getting the boat afloat. Afterwards we sat in a beach bar and watched the most amazing sunset while drinking beers, this adventure motorcycling is really hard!!!

Miles
Today : 82
Total : 10841

Honduras

Thursday 17th September
Antigua Guatemala to Copan Ruinas





Another early start as we had 150 miles to the boarder with Honduras, we had to negotiate the nightmare of Guatemala city to get to the otherside. This took almost 2 hours to get 20 miles as we had our first traffic jams and complex ring roads to ride through. After this was a run through the poorer areas of Guatemala before getting to the boarder. The boarder crossig was the usual red tape and a few dollars for various charges even getting your passport stamped carried a 3 dollar charge before they would let you out, also an exit charge for the bike. We then had to pay to get into Honduras, they had to check the bike's VIN before issuing the certificate, they also required 2 photocopies of the passport and V5 documents for which there was another charge! After this a short 10 miles run got us to the village of Copan Runias, ut not before negotiating the road, which had some sections just missing, large secion of tarmac having fallen down the hill.

Miles
Today : 160
Total : 10231
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Friday 18th September
Copan Ruinas
Day off
We spent most of the morning visiting the Mayan ruins, very similar to the ones at Palenque in Mexico, this area is the southern most area of Mayan past culture. The rest of the day spent washing clothes, relaxing and posting cards, I hope the get there.


Miles
Today : 0
Total : 10231
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Saturday 19 September - Day 57
Copan Ruinas to Danli

Today we ride across Honduras, it started with very nice sweeping roads, I was surprised at the condition of the roads, only occasional pot holes and bad surface, occasionally turning to gravel. After about 90 miles the road became dirt, although we had negotiated worse, this was a graded road where mud was mixed with stone to form a sort of surface. After rains this exposes numerous sharp pointy stones making travel like running on a random washboard. As it was dry this road was tolerable with the occasional rut created by rain water not tyre tracks. After this was a major road, leading to the big city of Tegucigalpal, here we ha to negotiate the traffic, as one rider put it, “it’s like being in the wacky races” traffic all over the place, under and over taking. All sorts of mayhem gong on and thrown into the mix police road blocks checking vehicles, probably for the ousted President. As we cam into Danali there had been a pro-president protest and we could here police sirens in the distance. This area appears more affluent, but the rubbish at the side of the road and the people walking carrying all sorts on their backs belied the lake of money.

Miles
Today : 318
Total : 10549

Guatemala

Saturday 12th September
San Cristobal to Panajachel (Guatemala)



Well we move now to Central America, the ride started off in the cool, with grey clouds, a welcome relief from the heat,. 100 miles saw us at the Mexican boarder just as the sun appeared, we had to get booked out, passports were first and fairly quick, just stamped with exit date. Then book out (export) the bikes, we have temporary import documents which the customs collected on-mass, then the guy walked around all the bikes checking the VIN numbers and pealing off the import sticker. He then went back to the office and we waited 2 + hours as he entered the details into his computer. We were then each issued a certificate of export and climbed onto the bike and rode the 2 miles to the Guatemalan boarder. He contrast could not have been more stark, semi-organised chaos reigned, fist each bike had to be fumigated (quick spray on the tyres) for which we were charged, then onto immigration to have the passports stamped. Once this is done we moved to customs where we get our vehicle import certificates, luckily there is no longer a requirement for a tourist card as they have computerised the office ! Once they have created the import document, they hold onto your documents while you go into anther office(bank) to pay the import charge, then back to the desk to retrieve the documents,. However these was a mistake on the VIN number on mine and it took a lot more processing to get this corrected. The boarder is surrounded by a market, and exiting the boarder is like driving though one of our pedestrian markets, people everywhere, out of the boarder the roads were surprisingly good and the road wound its way through an impressive valley flanked by steep, green covered mountains. After a short flat run and a stop for lunch this road moved higher and became a dual carriageway, as it climbed we moved into heavy rain and cloud barley able to see the road until turning off to our first stop, Panajachel.
!

Miles
Today : 246
Total : 9971
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Sunday 13th September
Panajachel to Chichicastenango



As it was a short hop to our next town we started off late, having wandered down to the lake, accords from us was the impressive sight of two extinct volcanoes ringed at the top by clouds. A relaxed wander though the town buying bottled water and a t-shirt then a short journey to the market town of Chichicastenango. After parking the bikes at the back of the hotel, unloading and getting a shower, I went to the market. Wow what a sight, people everywhere just a milling chaos, of small dark haired people, a whirlwind of movement. The Guatemalans are generally short, so I standout like a sore thumb, but don’t feel un-welcome, just the opposite. The whole experience of Guatemala is so much life, everything moving continually, the native brightly coloured, clothes worn by most, and a real pride in the country even though poor. The market was big, covering a good section f the town, most of the area comes to this market every Sunday to sell their produce, from food to tools and every kind of craft article. Even though it is supposed to finish at 3.00 pm it continued until 4.30, then it disappeared, and the empty streets appeared from under the dismantled stalls.


Miles
Today : 25
Total : 9996
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Monday 14th September
Chichicastenango to Antigua Guatemala



We were due to go to Biotopo through dirt mountain roads to this jungle village, however we had found out the mountain that the road runs on had completely collapsed last December taking the road with it. So it was decided to go to Antigua Guatemala a day early cutting some miles out of our journey. The run was very short around 75 miles giving us a nice easy run. We started late not because of this but because the celebrations for Guatemalan Independence day started early, the schools close and the kids go into parades. The parade here blocked the road out of town, however this allowed us to watch another colourful display of Guatemalan culture. Once over a leisurely drive go us to Antigua though we had to dodge busses of school kids all throwing water at each other. The busses here need mention as they are old American schools busses, but they paint them up in bright colours and drive around like mad men. Most busses are packed to the gills as most people here don’t have cars and are a real feature of Guatemala. In Antigua the festivities continued into the evening with parades of bands in the plaza, drums, trumpets, whistles and glockenspiels., creating a cacophony of sound, and this the day before Independence day

Miles
Today : 75
Total : 10071
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Tuesday 15th September
Antigua Guatemala
Day Off

Generally not much to report, sent this day updating this blog and wandering arround the town. We wathced the Independence day celabrations, this was less that the previous day, like New years Eve most of the celbrations take place at Midnght.


Miles
Today : 0
Total : 10071
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Wednesday 16th September
Antigua Guatemala
Day Off




We had arranged to go on a tour to a live Volcano, so it was up early ready to be picked up at 6.00am. After a 40 minute drive out to the Volcano, we had an 1 our and a half hike up the steep slopes till we got to the live lava beds at 7000 foot. The sumit was another 1500 feet above us but it's not possible to get there. However we did get to stand on the very hot rocks within 15-20 feet of the running lava. After taking pivture roating marshmellows, we moved away to allow our shoes to cool, mie took 20 minutes before the soles had cooled. I guess in England with health and safety we would not be allowed anywhere near it, but here we got as close as you can, an amazing sight.

Miles
Today : 0
Total : 10071

Mexico continued ...

Friday 4th September
Zacatecas to San Miguel Allende

As it was to be short, I went for a wander around the city, very modern shops hidden in older colonial buildings, the streets cobbled and narrow struggling to carry the modern traffic. The pedestrian crossings are amusing as the time counts down the animated figure starts running faster and faster. Getting the bikes out of the underground parking was fun, there were a lot of cars parked in the way, after clearing these we had to ride up a very steep ramp to the street, one of the group had been having digestive problems and couldn’t get his bike off the centre stand, so we had to put this in the support van and he spent this day in the van. Apart from the awkward navigation of the city, this was a basic riding day through a generally busy part of Mexico, there were more trucks and cars (mostly pick-ups) here, and the scenery stayed the same all the way to San Miguel.

Miles
Today : 213
Total : 8639.4
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Saturday 5th September
San Miguel Allende
Day off

After the Cosmopolitan city of Zacatecas San Miguel was a smaller town, but no less active the central plaza full of people sitting in the shade of trees eating ice cream and drinking cold drinks. Most Mexican town have a main central plaza where most activities take place. I visited some colourful markets in this town which had all sort on sale, this is another town of narrow cobbled streets, easy to navigate as it has a grid system, most shops are difficult to spot being open doors at the side of the street you think they are peoples houses not shops. He view from the hotel was fantastic, overlooking the chaotic scramble of houses, many with nicely maintained roof gardens as below there is little space for such. The day remained very warm well into the 30’s so it was good to relax, wander about and soak up the atmosphere of a different culture.


Miles
Today : 0
Total : 8639
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Sunday 6th September
San Miguel Allende to Huetjutlas

This started off in the heat of San Miguel, we had some changes to the route due to roadwork’s which had complicates things when we road in, after clearing the town we had some very nice sweeping roads with the temperature dropping into the pleasant mid 20s, we progressed into the mountains. I had got behind and I made up some time on a series of very sharp bends as we climbed into the mountains the 800 being very nimble even though I have an off-road tyre on the front. When I caught up with the group we moved into the cloud layer and it started to rain. The road continued as sharp bends left and right at each bend was a few houses constituting a village, these had “topes” speed bumps with the other traffic slowing for these, just as you get up to speed another appears this and hauling the bike around very tight bends, became quite tiring. This continued for almost 100 miles and when we arrived at the hotel in the rain most of us were very tired, normally this type of road would be sought after by motorcyclists, but a road this long becomes very tiring. A quick look around town and we settled on a small taco stall for dinner as one of the group had seen the food being prepared fresh !

Miles
Today : 285
Total : 8924
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Monday 7th September
Huetjutlas to Costa Esmeraldas

We started off in the cool aftermath of the nights rain, following the exact route notes took most 30 miles extra due to a missing sign, but I followed my map and short cut across to the main road. The wet damp roads and fields showed the signs of the wet season, most of the area covered with greenery. As the ride continued the whole scenery slowly became more tropical, the temperature rose and it got a lot more humid. Small palm trees appeared and then the sea appeared on my left, The Gulf of Mexico ! Arriving at the hotel very hot and sticky the first thing to do was to get the swim trunks on and dive into the sea, it was fantastic. The area is normally covered in tourists but we are I the rainy season and the whole beach was empty, we had this tropical paradise to ourselves. Later we were invited to dinner at a restaurant around the corner, the food was the best I have tested on this trip, gourmet food, soup, pasta and then fish main course.

Miles
Today : 163
Total : 9087
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Tuesday 8th September
Costa Esmeraldas to Catemaco

I was reluctant to leave this place as it was so nice to be beside the sea, climbing into the bike gear in heat and humidity is not pleasant but as soon as you get going you cool down. This was another relatively short day generally on busy main roads, each of the major bridges carry tolls even for bikes (19 pesos - 95p) and there are still military check points to negotiate here most again wave you through, another toll road (33 pesos) and a straight run. Arriving in Catemaco the notes mentioned arches, however these had been demolished so I got lost, two locals on mopeds were only too happy to lead the way to the hotel just so they could be seen riding with the big bike!. This town was on the side of very large lake with a number of islands, one of which is called Monkey Island for obvious reasons. The locals do boat/sight seeing trips to this island but as we were here only for one night there wasn’t enough time to go, a nice meal at a lakeside restaurant with a dry thunder storm in the background capped the day off very nicely.

Miles
Today : 208
Total : 9295
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Wednesday 9th September
Catemaco to Palenque

Starting this longish day the scenery became more jungle like and very nice for the first 50 miles, then we joined the main road, dual carriage way for another 200 miles, with lots of tolls. The quality of the road varied quite a lot from nice dual carriage way to bumpy potholed single carriage way and as ever turning to dusty potholed night mare as it passed through each village. At one point the dual carriage way had a topes (speed hump) in the middle of nowhere and for no know reason with no signs, everyone hit this at speed I managed to scrub off speed but still hit it a 50, I had thought bike broken with the force, but these GS’s are built strong as proved in Copper Canyon, so no damage. I was following 3 others making good time, these straight runs don’t suit the 800 and the fuel soon disappeared from the tank, the last 50 miles saw me nervously checking the miles to empty reading, the last 9 miles I dropped off the back of the group doing only 40 and hoping to see the Pemex sign (state run fuel stations), as the gauge read 1 miles left, it was relief to see the sign in the distance and just made it.


Miles
Today : 284
Total : 9579
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Thursday 10th September
Palenque
Day off
The accommodation was small thatch covered cabins and very nice, the hotel had a swimming pool, but I had had a bad night stomach cramps, showing I had eaten something bad (I suspected the fish in the hotels restaurant the night before), the cramps eased that day allowing me to visit the Mayan ruins just down the road. We left early to avoid the heat of the day and hired a local guide. He took us around, on and into the ruins, the part we saw had been excavated in the past, but the rest, a huge area 30 times the size has been left untouched. After walking around the ruins and taking photos we moved the museum a mile down the road, the air conditioned
Rooms being a welcome relief from the stiffeling, humid 35 deg heat. The museum had many of the artefacts excavated in the past, including a replica of the sarcophagus of the Queen buried in one of the excavated “houses”, the large buildings we think of as temples are now considered to be “houses” for the kings and queens and only become temples when they are buried in them. Most are then built upon for re-use as houses with access stairs to previous levels. The rest of the day was spent trying to rid myself of the stomach pain, and resting in the room.

Miles
Today : 8
Total : 9587
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Friday 11th September
Palenque to San Cristobal

Starting off this day I still had the stomach cramps, though not as bad, I started a course of antibiotics to help clear it. Putting on the bike gear in this heat and humidity was again uncomfortable. The run being short but with a stop at the Agua Azul waterfalls, stopping there late, I followed where I thought the others had gone up the trail, carrying my coat, tank bag and back-pack. After 40 minutes of walking in the jungle heat, I got to “El Canyon” which was little more than a distant view of water running in a gap in the rocks, very disappointing and not worth the walk. Gladly getting back to the bike, buying a couple of bottles of water, I moved on. Back on the same road all the way to San Cristobal it was a relief to find the humidity drop, eventually I ran not rain and put the water proofs on until arriving in the busy city. Unloading the bike I got a complimentary fruit drink, and then moved the bike to the secure compound across the street. We had a briefing to go to explain the boarder crossing procedure into Guatemala as this was our last night in Mexico!

Miles
Today : 138
Total : 9725

Mexico

Saturday 29th August
Tuscon to Nuevo Casa Grandes

Well this is it the real start of the adventure, we move out of the english speaking world and will only enter it again in December. 120 miles riding as a group saw us arrive at the Douglas/Agua Prieta border. After intial nevousness on all our parts the crossing went well, buying import documents and getting our passports stamped. It took 2 hours to get us all through in 32 deg heat, but we were all on our way, riding in small groups we were warned about the military check points that stop and search vehicles (the goverment is trying to clamp down the the drug trade). The first one we came across just took a moment to look us over and waved us on, the other 3 did exactly the same, I guess the don't think a bunch of bikes are likley drug runners. The first part of mexico is exactly like you would imagine it but as we rode it the temrature dropped dramatically and became much more pleasent. The villages and towns we rode through are again as you would imagine them, dusty streets and low buildings that don't seem well maintained. We stopped for lunch at what looks like a run down shack but inside is clean and well maintined and eat some of the best tasting Tacos.

Miles
Today : 268
Total : 7455.4
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Sunday 30th August
Nuevo Casa Grandes to Creel

Getting used to the driving in Mexico is difficult, they don't take notice of speed limits and overtaking is done anywhere, I was passed by an 18 wheeler, it overtook me and two other 18 wheelers uphill! Well "when in rome" as the saying goes ! You have to slow down in villages for the "Topes" (speed bumps) some consist of a row of metal domes the size of dinner plates nailed to the tarmac and are difficult for bikes. The countryside is not what you expect and very green and much cooler than the desert of Arizona. We end up in Creel a small rural village, we get to see the proper Mexican village life, parading around in large Chevrolet pick-ups around a small village square.


Miles
Today : 278
Total : 7733.4
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Monday 31st August
Creel to Batopilas (Copper Canyon)

The milege does not relay the difficulty of this ride 45 miles to the entrance of Copper Canyon, then onto dirt roads, it all started relativly easy some rutted sections then 15 miles in we hit the switch backs, 10 miles of gravely switch-backs on single track dirt road with at the top 2000 foot drops. No barriers and trucks and cars comming the other way. This took some time and as we descended into the Canyon the humidity rose, making this difficult road more difficult. At the bottom was a wooden bridge and we all though the worst was over, but no more miles as the track got more dificult muddy streams and climbing up and down the Canyon walls sometimes upto 500 foot from the bottom, on a left hander above the cliffs a trcuk sudenly apeared in front of me and it was a choice of gogin over the edge or slamming the brakes on and putting the bike down on the road. I was ok, nd bike bike relativly unscathed excet the end boken off the cluth lever and the auxillary lights a bit bent. I was nmore cautious from then on in and made it to the Hotel. We all were exhausted.


Miles
Today : 82
Total : 7815.4
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Tuesday 1st September
Batopilas (Copper Canyon)
Day off

We spent the day touring (on the back of a locals pick-up) further up the valley to a Cathedral, very incongruous in this "lost world" valley, due to the road, very few people come here. The road to it was even more treacherous and we tipped the local driver well!

Miles
Today : 0
Total : 7815.4
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Wednesday 9th August
Batopilas (Copper Canyon) to Parrall

Well this is the day we all dreaded as the only way out is the way in. Breakfast was subdued and most of us were very nervous especially one ride who had fallen 3 times on the way in and had had nightmares of falling of the cliff. Needless to say we were all quite and there was a sombre atmosphere as we packed the bike ready to leave it had been raining the whole night and the road would be even more difficult. It started ok, but the rider who had fell on the way down fell just a mile from the hotel with two other fallers on the way to the bridge. Next came the switch-backs back up the mountain, it all started ok until halfway up where the day before and today a bulldozer had been used to widen and flattened the track, leaving soft muddy earth. It was difficult for the bikes to get traction but I made it through as did the others, however I relaxed and on one switchback went wide into soft dirt and the bike went down again. No damage this time and after help picking the bike back up made it to the top. We all thought we were through but the rain had created mud pits for the next 2 miles and some others came off in these areas, thankfully I did not. After leaving the dirt road a more pleasant ride ensued on Tarmac, all of us arrived safely at the Hotel and we celebrated having beat Copper Canyon. I think this has brought the group together more as we all had to beat our own inner daemons to even start on the road.

Miles
Today : 207
Total : 8022.4
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Thursday 3 September
Parral to Zacatecas

We started later than normal for a 400 mile day, but most of us needed it to given the difficulty of yesterday. This was another "head down" and ride to put the miles in. Very little in the way of stopping or sight seeing. It started off with a crash, Danielle (one of two women riders) hit a cow on the road, she managed to stay up-right but had a badly sprained wrist, her bike went into the support van and she rode the rest of the day in the van. The rest of the day was spent just riding to put the miles in. Arriving in the city the road to the hotel was blocked, after much riding around the little back street we persuaded the police to let us through to the hotel. They have a festival here and had an International singer Christian Castro on a stage outside the Hotel.

Miles
Today : 404
Total : 8426.4